Photograph by Martha Williams
It’s a long trek from the grassy slopes and rocky ridges of the Swiss Alps to the concrete labyrinth of West Midtown. Just ask Truffles. The rugged, white mountain goat who once climbed the snowy peaks of Europe’s famous summits is now, in his taxidermic retirement, presiding over the dining room at Avize Modern Alpine, just down the block from Miller Union.
Like his sturdy mascot, Avize’s chef-owner, Karl Gorline, a Mississippi native and New Orleans and Atlanta restaurant veteran, knows the obstacles and occasional missteps that are part of a steady ascent. Finally at the helm of his own place, a few years shy of 40, he has reached a monumental peak in his career, following turns at revered Restaurant August in New Orleans and Watershed, Atlas, and The Woodall in Atlanta—not to mention Food Network’s Chopped.
While partly a nod to his heritage—his grandparents left the Bavarian region of Germany to travel by steamer to the United States—Gorline’s latest culinary direction is mostly a way to explore all the great food of the Alpine region. To recap for the geographically challenged, that’s an area defined by breathtaking vistas of vineyards, winding hiking trails near dairy farms, and a majestic mountain range spanning eight countries. Of those, it’s most often associated with France, Italy, Switzerland, and Austria.
“We’re looking at the culture and traditions, and we’re interpreting Southern food and our ingredients and our farmers and our culture through their lens,” Gorline says.
Photograph by Martha Williams
In his newly redesigned space, formerly Nick’s Westside, Gorline opted for an open kitchen, which adds a buzzy energy, as does the music mix of pop, R&B, and dance tracks—just loud enough to counteract a potentially stuffy fine-dining atmosphere.
A huge black-and-white photo of the Alps encircled by clouds helps set the scene. The main room is charming, with fabrics in deep blues and teals, ash and honey-colored wood tones, marble tabletops, antiqued brass trim, and white wainscoting. Crisp navy-and-white gingham adds a cheerful pop to chairs paired with tables along a long banquette (whoever added the lumbar pillows, you’re a genius).
But don’t be fooled by the casual vibe and cozy chalet-chic decor; fine dining lies ahead. Any doubts you have will be gone by the time the amuse-bouche arrives. Gorline’s take on the famous Arpege egg arrives on a golden twig stand. His interpretation of the Parisian classic has butternut squash custard, pine, and yeast. It’s a lot more complex than that, but this is the chef’s simplest breakdown. It doesn’t take away from the “wow” factor.
Photograph by Martha Williams
Peruse the menu (including wine-pairing suggestions), which lists selections from “The Farm. The Forest. The Sea,” as you sip on a signature cocktail. We suggest the Old Man of the Woods, a rye tippler with hints of maple and pine. To quote our server, it’s an old-fashioned, but the bartender “Alpined it up.” The drink is served with its own decanter and poured over an emerald-cut ice cube handmade by bar manager Jason Swaringen—his nakiri knife always at the ready. Another excellent mood enhancer is the Alpine Swizzle. Basically a tiki drink served in a stein, it’s a potent mix of navy rum, allspice, pineapple, and chartreuse vegetal liqueur.
The staff is relentlessly diligent about noting ingredients (vegetables, herbs, grains such as buckwheat and rye) from the restaurant’s 700-acre farm north of Bremen, Georgia. “Chef Karl” is equally dutiful about acknowledging other Georgia growers the restaurant relies on for sourcing, including Love Is Love and Pearson farms, as well local purveyors, such as Rusty Bowers of Pine Street Market (for bacon ends and pieces).
While the menu is seasonal, a handful of core dishes stay put. Among them: a dandelion greens salad with a knockout truffle vinaigrette and Satsuma oranges; the hay-smoked duck breast; the exquisite, fermented carrot Bolognese; the poulet Grenobloise (rustic chicken with browned butter, cauliflower, capers, lemon, and croutons); and the must-have flammkuchen (an Alsatian flatbread with fromage blanc, onions, and bacon).
The dessert options are few, and after some intense dishes, we wished for something a tad less challenging. Is a little chocolate too much to ask for? But if you’re all in until the end, go with juniper- and pine-tip ice cream with oolong milk tea foam and fennel pollen. It’s utterly unlike anything we’ve tried before, light and cleansing, and represents the complexity and unique flavors that make Avize remarkable. The ice cream goes nicely with a pour of Vermouth de Chambery Blanc over ice.
Photograph by Martha Williams
Another lovely way to finish is with Avize’s spin on an espresso martini: The Espresso Piemonte features agave vodka, espresso, fortified wine, and a topping of Comte cheese foam with a dusting of mint powder.
Cofounder and beverage director Taurean Philpott, a native of Bermuda, is within earshot of any questions and is quick to share a suggestion or expand on the wines, bubblies, and botanical liqueurs from the Alps. It’s another example of the staff’s easygoing graciousness and eagerness to inform—an homage to both Alpine and Southern hospitality.
This article appears in our February 2025 issue.
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