Photo by LuAnne DeMeo
After 55 years in the restaurant industry, Aria owner and chef Gerry Klaskala is ready to retire. In the next two months, he’ll pass the reigns to longtime general manager Andres Loaiza, who—with Klaskala’s help—will hire a new chef. It just so happens that his retirement coincides with the announcement of Aria as a finalist for the James Beard Foundation Outstanding Hospitality Award.
“I think it’s great. This particular Beard Award speaks of Andres’s effort and that of the team,” says Klaskala, humble as ever.
Recognized for a lifetime of achievement by the Georgia Restaurant Association Crystal of Excellence Awards in 2018, Klaskala created Aria with George McKerrow and Ron San Martin in 2000. Prior to that, he co-founded Canoe, and previously served as opening chef and managing partner of now-defunct Buckhead Diner.
Known for his philanthropic work, Klaskala has been involved with Open Hand Atlanta, Share Our Strength’s Taste of the Nation, and the National Multiple Sclerosis Society Georgia Chapter’s Harvest for a Cure. A pillar of the community, he’s recognized for his calm demeanor, kind smile, and strong leadership. We spoke to him about his legacy—and his plans for the future.
Courtesy of Atlanta Headshots
Why did you decide to retire?
I just completed 55 years in business. It just feels like its enough. If you asked me 10 years ago, I would say I’m going to keep going. But you start to see that life is finite, and work will just keep going on.
What’s the plan for transition?
Andres has been a wonderful partner. He really understands hospitality—the kind of effort it takes to do it excellently. We’re very close to hiring the next chef. It’s not someone local. It’ll be a process of bringing their personality into the venue and understanding what we’ve done for so long. Of course, they’re going to bring their own ideas, but they’ll need to have a feel for what guests are looking for and how they want to express themselves.
What have you learned from all your years at Aria?
I love what I do. I really, truly have given myself and have asked my team to give themselves, for the restaurant for that level of execution and consistency. When you walk into a restaurant and the chef is in that kitchen every night, he’s invested in your happiness. There’s a handful of us that do that.
When a customer would ask “Is Gerry here?” A waiter who used to work for us would say, “He’s here in the morning, he’s here in the afternoon, and he’s here at night. He’s here all the time!” It’s where I want to be. And I’ve been able to do exactly what I’ve wanted to do for a five-and-a-half-decade-long career.
How has the industry changed throughout your career?
It has attracted more intelligent people. There’s so much to learn and see. There’s more opportunity, but also the quality level that has percolated up. The way we treat people, the way the whole thing is run has gotten so much better.
I remember when I first moved to Atlanta, snow peas were an exotic vegetable. All the fish came frozen. If you were a produce guy, you sold potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, celery, and a few other things. Now you get whatever you want! There are great farmers in our community who have incredible products: super fresh and super high quality.
Photo by LuAnne DeMeo
What do you think is the future of fine dining in Atlanta?
The trend is less of it. I look back to a room full of tuxedoed waiters and roses on the table. That’s not a definition of fine dining anymore. There are fine dining restaurants without tablecloths and people are okay with that.
What are you most proud of?
My family. I love spending time with them—my boys, their wives, our grandkids—they’re just wonderful. I see them a lot.
I think that is the tricky part for a lot of young people getting into this field—how to juggle between family and work. The communication with your partner must be paramount. My wife Sally understood that it was very important to me to be successful, and it requires time.
What are you most proud of at Aria?
The team. I have people who started before we bought the restaurant, and they’re still here. Turnover doesn’t have to be a part of the business. You can invest time when you’re interviewing people to make sure that person is a really good fit.
How did you keep the restaurant going strong for 25 years?
I’m one tenacious MF. There’s no quit in me. My team are winners, and we never lost sight of the goal.
What will you miss the most?
All the people, the customers . . . I spend a ton of time in the kitchen, but when I do pop out, it’s so gratifying to see the regulars again and again.
Will you continue your philanthropy work?
I’d be cool to be involved, but at the same time, I would be more thrilled to see younger chefs and restaurateurs get involved.
I’m told you plan to resume your first passion: art. What kind of art do you do?
I love to draw, paint, dabble in sculpture. I have so many ideas in my head right now. When you cook, the biggest enemy is indifference. If your heart and your soul isn’t in it, it’s not going to be that good. But if you plug all of your senses and give yourself to it, you’re almost like in a trance. It’s the same with art. I’m so excited about it.
I also want to travel and see more of the world. I’ve had 10 days off a year for umpteen years. Some extra time is going to be good.
Advertisement
