Photograph by Martha Williams
New Zealand native Jake Harvey arrived in Atlanta via New York, his first stateside stop as a budding hip-hop producer. While pursuing musical aspirations and taking on side gigs, Harvey got to missing the savory meat pies that were a staple back home. (New Zealanders consume some 70 million meat pies a year. That’s pretty impressive for an island country that’s roughly the size of Colorado.)
So, what is a New Zealand meat pie? It resembles a pot pie but holds together more. It’s sturdy, like a turnover or empanada, but has an impossibly fluttery crust akin to a croissant. The pies are meant to be eaten out of hand. A pie ordered to-go comes in an old-school wax paper sleeve. But they can also be eaten at a more leisurely pace with a knife and fork.
“They’re synonymous with how New Zealanders view themselves, I think—as humble and unassuming,” says Harvey, owner of the newly opened Heaps, his savory-pie emporium and eatery in Decatur.
His buttery puff pastry crust hosts a variety of glorious fillings, from the melt-in-your-mouth beef and cheddar combo (pot roast vibes) to Thai chicken curry, brisket, jalapeño and cheese, chana masala (vegan), and the Cubano (mojo pork, ham, mustard, Swiss, and pickle). Heaps has more than a dozen varieties, including a few in rotation, such as carnitas al pastor (pulled pork, pineapple, and pickled jalapeño) and Mum’s veggie pie. Among the perfectly matched sides are mashed potatoes with a Marmite gravy (“to give it a meaty punch”) and a tangy slaw with apple slivers.
On Fridays, Heaps also serves “proper fish and chips.” Indeed, a generous portion of fried cod (made using an adapted tempura beer batter) arrives on a half baking sheet with a splendid sprawl of salted, hand-cut potato fries. On the side: house-made remoulade, lemon wedges, and bottles of malt vinegar—another reminder of the British influence on New Zealand cuisine.
To turn a Kiwi-centric phrase, the place is heaps good, y’all. Enjoy any of Harvey’s menu items with a crisp New Zealand sauvignon blanc or a Gizza pilsner, both on offer at the front counter.
This article appears in our May 2025 issue.
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