Photograph by Martha Williams
“There are so many transplants in Atlanta, when they find a slice of home, it’s welcoming,” says Atlanta restaurateur and Philadelphia native Michael Lo. He’s talking about his newest restaurant venture, Nicky’s Undefeated. This ode to the City of Brotherly Love opened in late summer in Tucker and sits on Main Street between the train tracks and the high school.
The subway-tiled front counter, eight-seater bar, and open kitchen have the friendly bustle of a corner takeout shop and sports-fan hangout. The gathering spot, raucous when the Eagles play, has five strategically placed TVs, so it’s always game time.
In this passion project, Lo (raised in North Philly) is joined by his friend Walt Gebelein (who grew up near Camden in South Jersey, near Philadelphia). The pair, both Rocky Balboa fans, named the restaurant in honor of all the underdogs and scrappy fighters back home. Gebelein, an IT career veteran and longtime Atlantan, is a co-owner and also serves as restaurant manager, greeting guests, talking sports, and reminiscing about the old neighborhoods. For newbies, he’s a Philly food and culture ambassador. Lo calls him the supreme maître d’.
Photograph by Martha Williams
Fellow Northeasterner and kitchen manager Russ Lamlin oversees a menu dripping with authenticity and loaded with cheesesteak options. I ordered the cheesesteak “Whiz wit” (Cheez Whiz and onions) on a plain Liscio’s roll (from the famed New Jersey bakery). With that first toasty bite came deeply flavorful chopped rib-eye steak; melty cheddar-style cheese, gooey and glorious; and sweet grilled onions turned to translucent perfection. There are hoagies aplenty, too, busting with fillings and oil-and-vinegar dressing—start with the must-have Italian. As for the fried chicken cutlet sandwiches, Gebelein favors “the underrated” Nick Foles, featuring broccoli rabe, sharp provolone, roasted red peppers, and balsamic. Coming soon, says Lo, is an Italian roast pork sandwich. Meanwhile: massive, foldable pizza slices? Check. And among the sides are crinkle-cut fries and Herr’s potato chips (Old Bay seasoning is an option for both).
Photograph by Martha Williams
There are water, or “wooder,” ices for dessert; Lo likes the cherry, for its nostalgia factor. The Philly Salted Caramel Pretzel and Butterscotch Vanilla are winners on the list of Bassetts ice cream flavors available. And the splendid pistachio cake with ricotta cream filling shouldn’t be missed. I left wanting another slice of not just the cake but everything.
This article appears in our December 2024 issue.
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