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The team behind Michelin-starred O by Brush is now serving hand rolls in Dunwoody

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Handrolls

Courtesy of Cuddlefish

Chef Jason Liang and John Chen, owners of Michelin-starred O by Brush, are now serving sushi in Dunwoody’s High Street development. Their newest restaurant, Cuddlefish, focuses on temaki, or hand rolls. Designed to be more affordable and approachable than Brush—which is known for its omakase—Cuddlefish also features a cafe with coffee and pastries made by Liang’s wife, pastry chef ChingYao Wang. There’s even a market where patrons can purchase sushi-making supplies, such as fresh fish and rice, plus snacks and branded apparel.

“Brush is focused on high-quality Japanese fish. Cuddlefish is about having fun with bold flavors,” Liang explains. “I’m a Taiwanese-American, so I want to use some of that and incorporate it with Japanese ingredients.”

Liang, who also owns Momonoki, Momo Cafe, and Lucky Star with Chen, originally launched Cuddlefish in the former Brush space in Decatur, before shuttering it in 2023 and moving it to Dunwoody. “The lease was up but we wanted to give the concept a test run. It proved it worked,” he says.

At Cuddlefish, diners can order a la carte or opt for a 12-course temaki tasting at the chef’s counter (no advance notice required). A la carte appetizers include Taiwanese chicken nuggets and spicy tuna tartar. There’s a poke bowl, veggie tempura bowl, and temaki ranging from American Wagyu to yellowtail scallion. Three “Temaki Sets” are available for those who want to try a handful of options without the cost or time commitment of the tasting menu.

“We want it to be family friendly. We have lots of vegetable and cooked options too,” Liang says. “We want it to be energetic and fun. You can get in and out in an hour to an hour-and-a-half.”

The drink list includes wine, beer, and sake with some sake-based mixed drinks. “You don’t need liquor to make good cocktails,” Liang says. Seasonal sake flavors include strawberry and mango. There’s also house-made kombucha.

Liang describes the space as bright and welcoming with a lot of green (his favorite color), plus white and natural woods. The back bar features four arches, and the patio tables are white and covered with floral tablecloths.

Opening at 9 a.m. daily, the cafe boasts its own seating area. Look for Methodical Coffee drinks, and Cuddlefish’s signature, a tiramisu latte with mascarpone cream and cocoa powder. Wang will concentrate on croissants here, but banana-oat cookies and pineapple buns will be for sale, too.

In the market, you can find Bluefin tuna from Mexico, hamachi and uni from Japan, and Atlantic salmon from Chile or Scotland. In addition, there’s sushi rice, nori, tableware, and Cuddlefish hats.

“People always ask where they can buy sushi-grade fish. We want to be that place,” Liang says.

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