Courtesy of Visit Oxford
If you’re not careful, a visit to Oxford might land you in the “Velvet Ditch.” Incorporated in 1837, the small college town with its bustling historic square earned the nickname in the 1950s after locals noticed a pattern: People came to Oxford (often for class at the University of Mississippi, aka Ole Miss), got comfortable, and never left. People love this place, and you can feel it. And truthfully, there’s a lot to keep one here: a culinary scene long lauded but still staying ahead of the curve (plus it’s home to the Southern Foodways Symposium every fall), a rich literary legacy that includes the likes of John Grisham and William Faulkner (who used Oxford as the inspiration for his fictional Yoknapatawpha County), and—of course—a fiercely proud university spirit felt particularly during football season. Before you know it, you’ll be saying “Hotty Toddy” too.
THE GOURMAND
Caffeinate
Mother-and-daughter duo Alison Anderson and Wade Johnson partner with female coffee growers from around the world to roast the delicious single varietals and blends at Exploradora Coffee Roastery. Get an energy boost from their strong cold brew, and purchase a few colorful bags of beans to enjoy later.
Brunch
Indulge in fried grouper Benedict with Creole mustard hollandaise or crab and asparagus crepes at SoLa, whose name nods to its NOLA influences and the street on which it’s located, South Lamar. The all-female kitchen is led by Chef Erika Lipe, recently crowned the “Queen of Mississippi Seafood” at the Mississippi Seafood Cookout.
Photo by Houston Cofield
Sip
Located on 20 lush acres a few miles outside of town, Wonderbird Spirits—Mississippi’s first grain-to-glass distillery—is one of three gin producers in the world to use rice. The ingredients are a love letter to the city, with pine needles and red clover harvested from the distillery grounds and fresh magnolia petals collected around Oxford.
Book Ahead
For more than 30 years, James Beard–winning chef John Currence’s City Grocery has been a go-to dining spot on the Square for regulars, visitors, and even legendary writers, with its cozy white-tablecloth atmosphere downstairs and lively second-floor bar. The menu changes seasonally, but the shrimp and grits has earned a permanent spot.
Courtesy of Visit Oxford
Stay
Bed down at the Oliver, a chic 40-room boutique hotel on the edge of the Square boasting a duo of culinary delights: the Kingswood, a seasonally inspired restaurant with a glowing garden patio, and Nightbird, an intimate speakeasy offering small plates and creative cocktails.
THE BOOKWORM
Courtesy of Visit Oxford
Tour
Follow the cedar-lined path through the front doors of Rowan Oak, William Faulkner’s Greek Revival home, to see where the Oxford luminary wrote many of his bestselling books. Especially fascinating is the outline of his Pulitzer Prize–winning A Fable scrawled on the walls of his office.
Gaze
Walk the Bailey Woods Trail that leads from Rowan Oak to the University of Mississippi Museum, home to the Seymour Lawrence Collection of American Art. Keep an eye out for pieces of art by celebrated writers Kurt Vonnegut and Russell Chatham, as well as works by Georgia O’Keeffe.
Browse
Stop in at the original Square Books, Oxford’s premier independent bookstore since 1979, and don’t miss its sister stores. Off Square Books hosts author meet and greets and shelves cookbooks, puzzles, stationery, and gifts; Square Books, Jr. stocks stuff for the kids; and Rare Square Books features collectible editions.
Dig Deeper
Delve further into Oxford’s literary history with a visit to the Department of Archives & Special Collections at J.D. Williams Library. The extensive collection includes William Faulkner’s Rowan Oak papers (a box of original documents found in his broom closet), letters written by Eudora Welty, and 69,000 rare books.
Tune In
On Thursdays throughout the fall, Thacker Mountain Radio Hour welcomes a live audience to enjoy the free show, which showcases both emerging and established authors and musicians, often at the Powerhouse Community Arts Center. Previous shows have featured authors Donna Tartt, Rick Bragg, and Jesmyn Ward.
THE FOOTBALL FAN
Courtesy of Visit Oxford
Post Up
It may be surprising that a hotel lobby is a favorite study spot for Ole Miss students. Follow their lead and sip a latte from cafe Cabin 82 while relaxing in the brightly colored, book-filled lobby of the Graduate hotel. Come evening, head to the Coop restaurant for rooftop views of the Square and TVs for football viewing.
Shop
Football games in the South are a fashion show. Dress to impress with an outfit from Neilson’s; established in 1839, it’s the oldest continually operating department store in the South. Browse the racks for stylish stadium-approved bags and dresses for any occasion, as well as men’s and children’s clothing.
Courtesy of Visit Oxford
Tailgate
Festivities reach a fever pitch before Saturday’s kickoff at the Grove, a 10-acre campus greenspace that serves as tailgate central. Witness the chaotic Running of the Tents at 7 p.m. sharp on Friday, when it officially opens for fans to claim their spots. Stroll through the next day to see the setups—some go all out with chandeliers and fully loaded buffets.
Drink Local
Circle and Square, Oxford’s first microbrewery, is named after its location exactly half a mile from both the Square and campus’s historic Circle. Order a few four-ounce pours of Ole Miss–themed brews, such as Oxford Style (an English pale ale) or Exchange Student (a Vienna lager), and stick around to watch the game.
Let Loose
You won’t have to keep your voice down at this Library, the biggest sports bar in Oxford with a patio, dance floor, and more than 20 TVs. Fair warning: There will likely be a line and cover charge on game days. Consider stopping by earlier in the day when the garage-style windows stay open, welcoming in lots of light and prime people-watching.
This article appears in the Fall 2024 issue of Southbound.
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