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Photograph by Martha Williams
Soon after co-owners Ean Camperlengo and Ross Winecoff opened Mothers Best Fried Chicken last December, they were slammed, with lines out the door to Church Street. In a struggling restaurant world full of misses, they’d managed to score a hit.
Their fast-casual joint, says Camperlengo, “exists in that pocket between The Deer and the Dove and Popeyes.” In fact, it literally exists on Decatur Square, next to the MARTA station and close to The Deer and the Dove, sharing a wall with a flowery, bird-inspired mural, which also nests their takeout window.
The restaurant’s tagline is “Damn Good Fried Chicken Like Mom Used to Buy.” Camperlengo was raised by a single mom in New Orleans and loved when she brought home fried chicken dinners from Popeyes or Publix.
With that first bite of fried chicken at Mothers Best comes a hot, crackling crunch, followed by a moist and tender mouthful. The chicken is brined, then spiced before cooking. “For some people, that’s enough,” says Camperlengo. “But then we rest it in buttermilk and hot sauce. Even after we fry it, we’re still seasoning the outside with our own spice blend.”
The huge overhead menu also touts superdelish sides. Among them are the “world famous” velvet potatoes and gravy, rich with a beef stock base, a hit of Worcestershire sauce, and fresh thyme; Louisiana-style red beans and spiced rice featuring fragrant basmati; and a snappy, slightly sweet collard greens coleslaw. Fried chicken sandwiches and tenders, check. Crinkly fries, check. The refreshments include playful but not-too-precious cocktails, such as the Iced Tea Boozer (white rum was our spirit of choice—no regrets).
The dining room is snug and decorated with quirky, endearing memorabilia and celeb photos. It looks like a cross between a kids’ playhouse and a roadside honky-tonk. Order at the counter and, if you like, add a pickled jalapeño from the giant jar. Grab a coveted booth, if you can.
This article appears in our March 2025 issue.
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